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Discovering Croatia

Looking for a family-friendly destination fairly close to home but outside the eurozone? Margaret Doherty explores Croatia’s north Dalmatian coast and finds that the Greeks, Romans and Venetians have all been there before her.

My base for my first visit to Croatia was the Funimation in Borik, about 3km from the walled city of Zadar, the ancient capital of Dalmatia. With its extensive facilities including swimming pools (plus one just for the kids), Funimation (Fun + Animation) programmes for the children and the Acquapura Thalasso and Spa with beauty department and fitness studio to keep the grown ups happy you might well be tempted to stay within the hotel complex. But, if you can drag yourself away from the sumptuous breakfast buffet (you’ve got to love a culture that serves cake – along with virtually everything else – for breakfast), the region is full of surprises.

Five of Croatia’s eight national parks are found in north Dalmatia, as well as picturesque towns and tasty local produce from seafood to figs, walnuts and liqueurs. Inside Zadar’s walls are the remains of a Roman forum and road layouts that still reflect the ancient grid system. There’s little left of the forum founded by Emperor Augustus in the first century AD but the walls of the adjacent St Donat’s church, built in the 9th century and Croatia’s largest Byzantine building, are constructed from blocks taken from it.

There’s a strong café culture here too, so stop for a coffee in the main square, Narodni Trg, among the Venetian buildings and take time to watch the world go by. More modern attractions are to be found on the recently renovated quay. In 1964 Alfred Hitchcock stayed in the Hotel Zagreb whose imposing facade faces the spectacular sunsets he considered among the most beautiful in the world.  

Nearby you’ll find the Sea Organ, a set of underwater pipes with openings in an elegant set of steps at the water’s edge. The movement of the water creates the haunting notes that constantly fill the air. Last year the solar-powered installation Greeting to the Sun, designed by the same architect, was completed and comes alive after sunset when the rainbow colours dance in synch with the music of the Sea Organ, to the delight of the children running around following the moving lights.

Zadar is also a great base from which to visit one of the area’s many national parks, explore the islands along the Adriatic coast or see some of the other historic towns that dot the coastline. Whether you fancy sailing among the mostly uninhabited Kornati islands, taking a trip to the Krka national park with its spectacular waterfalls, boardwalks and renovated weavers’ cottages, or tackling the mountains and rapids of the Paklenica national park there’s plenty to choose from, however active you want to be.

The islands of Pag and Nin are also easily accessible from Zadar. Renowned for the lamb reared on its craggy, herb-strewn slopes, left bare after the Venetians stripped it of its trees to use for the piles on which they built Venice, Pag is also famous for its hard sheep’s cheese and the lace that has been made here for centuries. Don’t leave without trying the local lamb cooked in a traditional peka, a pot covered with hot coals and ashes left to slow cook.

Between the 9th and 12th centuries the small island village of Nin was the country’s ecclesiastical and royal capital and is often considered the Cradle of Croatia. Built on a shallow lagoon surrounded by salt pans this charming town’s real treasure is the small Museum of Antiquities full of fascinating finds from Croatian boats, delicate Roman jewelry and burial artifacts including rare glassware. The mosaic floor of a Roman house can also be found close by, as can ‘the smallest cathedral in the world’, the 9th century Church of the Holy Cross. But if all that sightseeing is too much, sandy beaches are just a 15-minute walk away and there are plenty of cycle routes too.

Top tips

• Fancy a festival? In Sibenik, near Zadar, the 49th annual International Children’s Festival is a two-week long celebration of children’s creativity at the end of June/early July 09 with everything from workshops to theatre, puppetry, painting and music: www.sibenik.hr
  Or if you like chilled-out tunes, in Petrcane, about 8km from Zadar, there’s The Garden Festival season 3-12th July offering dub, jazz, soul or electronica and where the organizers are making sure that kids are well catered for. Entertainment for children on site includes face and body painting, trampolining and a kids’ playground: www.thegardenfestival.eu
• The local currency is the kuna though many prices are also quoted in euros. (Current rate of exchange about 7.3 kuna to the pound)
• Sunday trading has recently been limited in Croatia. I’m told this won’t be strongly enforced during the main tourist season but it’s worth checking locally in case a planned Sunday shopping spree isn’t possible
• It is possible to travel round the area without hiring a car. Zadar airport is only 8km from Zadar itself, which has good local bus and ferry links to surrounding towns and islands
• Make sure you try the many types of bread that the Croatians buy fresh every day. The seafood is great too – everything from oysters, prawns and mussels to squid and anchovies in oil and lemon juice.
• A bottle of Maraschino liqueur, prepared following a traditional recipe made by the Dominican monastery’s pharmacists at the beginning of the 16th century, is a great present to take home.
• You’re unlikely to encounter any language barrier. Most Croatians speak English (many are impressively multilingual) but a few words of Croatian would be appreciated
• Temperatures can get very hot in the height of summer. Slather on plenty of sunscreen and bring a hat and plenty of water, especially if you are going out on the water.

Photos in order of appearance
1. The Kornati Islands
2. Waterfall at the Krka national park
3. Bridge to Nin
4. The smallest cathedral in the world

Ryanair has two direct flights a week (five in July and August) from Edinburgh to Zadar from £57 return including taxes. Flights also from Stansted to Zadar.
www.ryanair.com

The 4-star Funimation Borik has standard doubles from £52 per person per night all inclusive including use of spa and taxes.
www.falkensteiner.com/borik

More information on Zadar: www.zadar.hr  
More information on Croatia from the Croatian National Tourist Office: 020 8563 7979, www.croatia.hr

Margaret Doherty